ROCK SOLID TECHNICAL BULLETIN 0312: Reed Valve Installation
The Reed Valve has been assembled & checked
by Rock Solid Engine Team personally, all tolerances are within our design
parameters & should NOT BE ALTERED. The Rock Solid Reed Valve kit has been
designed around countless hours of Dyno testing to ensure the best design
possible for the cage has been used; any modifications no matter how small will
lessen the affect. For example, Rock Solid Engines could have quite easily
lengthened the intake runner, but testing has proven even 1mm of additional
length from the tip of the Reed valve to the leading edge of the manifold
runner would decrease performance. The team at Rock Solid Engines are all about
designing components which attain the best results possible.
KIT CONTENT
1 x Complete & assembled Reed Kit
2 x M6 Washers
2 x 304 Stainless M6 x 30 button head socket
screws
1 x Inlet gasket
Step 1: Remove existing
carburettor, accelerator cable & inlet manifold from engine.
Step 2: Clean thoroughly the
inlet face of the barrel to ensure no old inlet gasket is remaining.
Step 3: Place the reed valve
cage & gasket up against the face of the inlet flange of the barrel to
check if any of the cooling fins of the barrel will foul against the reed cage
body. Not all engine barrel castings are the same, if the back of the reed cage
fouls against a cooling fin simply use a flat file and gently file back only
the cooling fin which is stopping the reed cage from sitting against the inlet
manifold face. This is very important that there is enough clearance so the
Reed cage, when fitted can be tightened down correctly, ensure you place a
strip of masking tape against the inlet flange face to stop any filings
entering the inlet runner.
This is the cooling fin which may have to be filed
down a little to ensure the reed cage body does not foul against it.
Step 4: Insert the two M6 x 30mm bolts into the Reed
cage along with the washers. Do not force the bolts all the way through by
hand, stop when you feel resistance & use a allen key to screw the
remaining of the bolt through the cage just enough so you can place the gasket
on the back of the Reed cage and it will hold itself there. Now gently commence
screwing the bolts into the barrel, ensuring you keep screwing the bolts in evenly
on both sides. DO NOT screw one side entirely before starting the other, some
barrel castings differ in thread length, we have provided bolts which are long
enough to ensure the entire thread of the barrel is used. If your barrel
threads are too shallow, you can simply grind a little of the end of the bolt,
but if this needs to be done it would only just be 1mm - 2mm. We personally do
not use the washers & we simply file back the bolt until it will tighten up
as much as possible without bottoming out. The reason why we want to use up all
the thread which is in the barrel is due to wanting to tension the reed cage as
much as possible without stripping the thread & ensuring its going to be a
strong hold, any leaks here will decrease the Reed Valve’s performance.
Step 5: Fit the carburettor
back on & ensure the carburettor neck is tighten enough so it seals well.
You can apply a little aeronautical gasket sealant or any similar product if so
desired around the neck of the manifold before sliding the carburettor on, but
if you do ensure no sealant makes its way into the manifold itself and into the
reed cage. If the bottom of the carburettor fouls against the clutch cable post
& hinders the positioning of the carburettor, you can either unscrew the
clutch cable post and file down the top of the post so the carburettor doesn't
fowl with the post, or place the carburettor on the manifold just enough so it
does not foul with the clutch cable post. It would be advised to file down the
clutch cable post as by not placing the carburettor all the way on the manifold
you are affectively lengthening the inlet runner. Now insert the accelerator
cable to the carburettor & you’re done.
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Step 6: From our Dyno
testing it has been shown that a decrease in jet size increased the
performance, as now the engine is not losing any of its fuel back through the
carburettor due to the pulse frequency generated by the engine. It’s best to simply read the colour of your
spark plug to ensure you have the correct fuel air mixture. You want a light
tan colour & the negative strap to be consistent in colour and become
darker on the curve of the electrode strap for perfect fuel/air mixture.
For any assistance please do not hesitate to
contact us as we are more than happy to assist all our clients,
simply email us a picture to sales@jnmotorsbikes.com
of the spark plug
& we can recommend which way to go.
Note:
Your engine may be hard to start for the first
time, once the petals have flexed, engine starting will become easier.
Rock Solid Engines can offer a Walbro
Carburettor upgrade kit for the fastidious engine tuner, which is fitted with
external Low & High adjustable jets. The crankcase will have to be drilled
& tapped for plumbing the carburettors accelerator pump, for which all
components are supplied.
Don’t worry if any of the petals break and go
into the engine, we have purposely
designed them to be made out of fibreglass & it will not damage any
internals of the engine, they are available as a spare part if ever needed.
If you like this product please visit the following link http://www.jnmotorsbikes.com/product_p/jnm1252.htm
