Wednesday, January 23, 2013


ROCK SOLID TECHNICAL BULLETIN 0312: Reed Valve Installation

The Reed Valve has been assembled & checked by Rock Solid Engine Team personally, all tolerances are within our design parameters & should NOT BE ALTERED. The Rock Solid Reed Valve kit has been designed around countless hours of Dyno testing to ensure the best design possible for the cage has been used; any modifications no matter how small will lessen the affect. For example, Rock Solid Engines could have quite easily lengthened the intake runner, but testing has proven even 1mm of additional length from the tip of the Reed valve to the leading edge of the manifold runner would decrease performance. The team at Rock Solid Engines are all about designing components which attain the best results possible.


1 x Complete & assembled Reed Kit
2 x M6 Washers
2 x 304 Stainless M6 x 30 button head socket screws
1 x Inlet gasket

Step 1: Remove existing carburettor, accelerator cable & inlet manifold from engine.

Step 2: Clean thoroughly the inlet face of the barrel to ensure no old inlet gasket is remaining.

Step 3: Place the reed valve cage & gasket up against the face of the inlet flange of the barrel to check if any of the cooling fins of the barrel will foul against the reed cage body. Not all engine barrel castings are the same, if the back of the reed cage fouls against a cooling fin simply use a flat file and gently file back only the cooling fin which is stopping the reed cage from sitting against the inlet manifold face. This is very important that there is enough clearance so the Reed cage, when fitted can be tightened down correctly, ensure you place a strip of masking tape against the inlet flange face to stop any filings entering the inlet runner.

This is the cooling fin which may have to be filed down a little to ensure the reed cage body does not foul against it.

 Step 4:  Insert the two M6 x 30mm bolts into the Reed cage along with the washers. Do not force the bolts all the way through by hand, stop when you feel resistance & use a allen key to screw the remaining of the bolt through the cage just enough so you can place the gasket on the back of the Reed cage and it will hold itself there. Now gently commence screwing the bolts into the barrel, ensuring you keep screwing the bolts in evenly on both sides. DO NOT screw one side entirely before starting the other, some barrel castings differ in thread length, we have provided bolts which are long enough to ensure the entire thread of the barrel is used. If your barrel threads are too shallow, you can simply grind a little of the end of the bolt, but if this needs to be done it would only just be 1mm - 2mm. We personally do not use the washers & we simply file back the bolt until it will tighten up as much as possible without bottoming out. The reason why we want to use up all the thread which is in the barrel is due to wanting to tension the reed cage as much as possible without stripping the thread & ensuring its going to be a strong hold, any leaks here will decrease the Reed Valve’